Remove the ice scoop from service. Immerse it in a clean container with 50ppm chlorine solution (available as chlorine tablets dissolved in 1 litre water, or as liquid bleach diluted 1:100). Leave for 3-5 minutes. Remove, allow to drip dry, and return to the scoop holder. Never leave a wet scoop in the holder — wet plastic becomes a bacterial incubator within hours. If your venue uses multiple scoops, rotate them: remove scoop A, clean scoop B (which has been drying), install scoop B, sanitise scoop A for next shift.

Use a damp cloth (plain water, no abrasive) to wipe down the exterior casing and the glass door. This removes dust, condensation marks, and any spilled material from the bar top. Do not use acidic cleaners (lemon juice, vinegar) on the door frame — these corrode stainless steel seals. A simple damp cloth is sufficient.

Look at the ice in the bin. Healthy ice is clear and hard. Cloudy ice indicates water quality issues (filtration failure) or evaporator biofilm. Soft or mushy ice indicates temperature control problems. Discoloured ice or visible sediment in the bin requires immediate investigation and bin emptying. If you notice cloudiness that wasn’t present yesterday, the water filter is likely blocked — check the filter pressure gauge (if fitted) and schedule a filter replacement urgently.

Many commercial machines have a pressure gauge on the water inlet. The gauge should read 0.2-0.3 bar differential (clean filter). If the gauge shows >0.4 bar differential, the filter is clogged and must be replaced immediately — clogged filters are bacterial reservoirs. If no gauge is fitted, establish a filter replacement schedule based on water hardness: soft water regions (Scotland, Southwest) typically need replacement every 6 months; hard water regions (South East, Midlands) every 3 months.

Use a clean ice scoop to remove all ice from the bin into a waste container. Do not pour the ice down a drain — ice may contain sediment. Discard the ice entirely. Never reuse ice that has been in the bin overnight or over a weekend closure. Once the bin is empty, allow any remaining water to drain (some machines have a drain plug at the base of the bin).

Mix a food-safe sanitiser solution (Hoshizaki HCD-1 or equivalent, typically 1 sachet per 5 litres of water, or use a commercial food-safe quaternary ammonium solution at 200ppm). Use a soft cloth or sponge to wipe all interior surfaces of the bin, including corners and the drain area. Pay special attention to areas where sediment collects. Rinse thoroughly with clean water (three rinses) to remove all sanitiser residue. Allow the bin to air-dry or wipe dry with a clean cloth. Sanitiser residue on ice is a compliance failure — rinse thoroughly.

The rubber gasket around the bin opening and the door seal are high-moisture zones where mould and algae colonise. Use a damp cloth to wipe both gaskets. For stubborn discoloration, use a soft brush with a mild food-safe detergent solution, then rinse with clean water. Do not use bleach directly on rubber — bleach degrades the gasket material. If the gasket is cracked or brittle, note it for replacement during the next quarterly service.

Check that the water reservoir is full (consult the machine’s service manual for the level indicator). If water level is low, top up with filtered water (if the machine is connected to a mains water supply with integral filtration) or reverse osmosis water (if you want to minimise scale buildup). Run the machine through one ice-making cycle with the collected ice discarded. This flushes any sediment that has accumulated in the water circuit during the week. Do not serve this ice.

Switch off the machine at the mains switch and allow it to stand for 5 minutes. Locate the water drain valve (consult the service manual for location — typically at the base of the machine or under the water tank). Place a bucket underneath and open the drain valve slowly. Allow all water to drain completely. Some machines have a drain pump that requires manual activation; check your manual. Once drained, you may proceed with the descaling cycle.

Each brand has a specific descaling protocol and approved chemical. Hoshizaki machines use LK-100 descaler (one sachet per 5 litres); Manitowoc machines use the “Cleaner” chemical in the proprietary cleaning cycle; Scotsman machines have an integrated Aquaclean descale cycle accessible via the control panel; Brema machines require manual descaling with commercial descaler followed by rinse cycles; Ice-A-Cool machines accept generic descalers (citric acid based, not HCl). Consult your machine’s manual for the exact procedure — descaling procedures vary by model. Generally: mix the descaler solution, pour it into the water tank, run the cycle (typically 20-30 minutes), and allow the solution to circulate through the evaporator plate and water lines. This dissolves scale buildup that has accumulated over the month.

Once the descale cycle is complete, open the access panel to the evaporator plate (the metal plate where water freezes into ice). Using a soft-bristled brush (toothbrush-sized, not a metal brush), gently brush the plate surface to dislodge any remaining biofilm or sediment. Move the brush in gentle strokes — the evaporator plate is delicate and must not be scored or punctured. If biofilm is stubborn, allow the descaler solution to soak for an additional 10-15 minutes, then brush again. Rinse the plate thoroughly with clean water using a spray bottle or soft cloth.

Check the filter replacement date on your filter cartridge. Most filters are replaced every 6 months; heavy-use venues or hard-water areas may need 3-monthly replacement. If the filter is approaching its expiry date, replace it now. Water filters typically clip into a housing accessed from the control panel or the rear of the machine. Consult the manual for exact location. Drain any residual water from the old filter housing, insert the new filter cartridge (ensure the seal is seated correctly), and flush the housing with clean water to remove any packaging material.

Once the descale cycle is complete and the filter is replaced, refill the water reservoir with fresh filtered water (if using mains supply with integral filtration) or reverse osmosis water (preferred for mineral-heavy areas). Power the machine back on and run two complete ice-making cycles. Discard both batches of ice. Do not serve either batch — this flushes residual descaler solution and any particles from the cleaning cycle. Once the second discard batch has been collected and discarded, the machine is safe for service.

Record the date, time of completion, chemicals used (brand and quantity), filter status (replaced or not), and the name and signature of the person who carried out the clean. Store logs in a folder or digital file. These records are inspectable by Environmental Health Officers and must be retained for a minimum of three years. A logbook with gaps signals to an EHO that the machine is not being maintained to standard — compliance failure.

Every three months, replace the water filter cartridge (or every six months in soft-water areas with low sediment). At the same time, inspect the condenser coils on the rear or side of the machine. These fins collect dust and airborne debris. Use a soft brush to gently remove dust buildup. Dust on condenser fins reduces heat rejection efficiency, forcing the compressor to work harder and consume more electricity. In extreme cases (6-12 months of neglected dust), a clogged condenser can trigger compressor overheat shutdowns. A quick brush-clean every three months prevents this issue entirely.

If your ice machine contains more than 5 tonnes CO2-equivalent of refrigerant (most commercial machines do), you are required under the Environmental Protection (ODS Regulations) 1989 (Amendment) Regulations 2025 to arrange an annual F-Gas leak inspection. This is a statutory requirement, not optional. A certified F-Gas engineer will: check all joints and seals for active refrigerant leaks; measure the charge level using calibrated equipment; inspect the compressor oil for signs of moisture or acid; and document their findings on an inspection certificate. You must retain this certificate for three years. The inspection costs £150-£250 and is essential for warranty protection — if a refrigerant leak occurs and you have no valid annual inspection certificate on record, the warranty becomes void.

The rubber gasket around the bin opening and the door seal degrade over time, especially in high-humidity environments like pub kitchens. During the annual service visit, ask the engineer to assess gasket condition. If the gasket is cracked, brittle, or no longer compresses evenly when the door closes, it should be replaced. A failed gasket allows warm air to enter the bin, reducing cooling efficiency and allowing bacterial contamination to enter the ice. Gasket replacement typically costs £80-£150 and is far cheaper than the compressor failure that results from a failed seal that forces the machine to run continuously.